Lembert Dome (Sierra Nevada; 9,450')
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Lembert Dome is conveniently located right across the river from Tuolumne Meadows Store.
The best routes are on the NW side, including Warren Harding's 1954 classic, Northwest Books.
Topo Map
Routes: NW Books (I, 5.6)
NW Books Variation (I, 5.9)
Crying Time Again (I, 5.10a)
Direct NW Face (I, 5.10b/c)
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Lembert Dome in late August across the Tuolomne River
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Date: August 30, 2017
Party: Paul and Dietrich Belitz
Route: Crying time again
Equipment: Light rack to Camalot #2, many slings and quickdraws
Time: 3 hrs on route
Trip report:
I led the second and the fourth pitch, Paul took the odd ones, linking the last two.
It's a great route. The psychological crux is the runout 5.9 section after the bolt
on pitch 3, the technical one is the well protected last pitch.
Photo Gallery:
Click the thumbnails to see a higher resolution image
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The NW face of Lembert Dome. Crying time climbs the improbable looking
central part, including the headwall.
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Date: August 26, 2016
Party: Dietrich and Paul Belitz
Route: NW Books
Equipment: Alpine rack to Camalot #3
Time: 1 hr 15 mins
Trip report:
I took the first pitch, Paul the second. This time we did the classic route rather than
the variation. The route is popular, so we had to wait in line forever before we got
started.
Date: August 11, 2014
Party: Paul and Dietrich Belitz
Route: Crying Time Again
Equipment: Light rack to Camalot #2, many slings and quickdraws
Time: 3 hours
Comments:
Very impressive route that goes up the headwall to the left of the Direct NW Face.
The hard parts are all very well protected, usually by bolts, although some gear
is needed.
Date: August 6, 2012
Party: Paul and Dietrich Belitz
Route: Direct NW Face
Equipment: Alpine rack to Camalot #3
Time: 4 hours
Trip report:
Paul led all three of the hard pitches. I experienced the burly 10a crux on the second pitch
as the overall hardest part. The 10b crux on the third pitch is delicate (start to the left
of the crack and use the crack as a sidepull), but less physical. After the 10a roof higher
up one is still not quite done; there are several 5.9 mantel moves that are very hard to
protect. A tricam may fit into one of the pin scars; camalots do not. It's a very clean and
impressive line that follows a crack from bottom to top. In its original state, without the
pin scars, it must have been quite a bit harder.
Date: August 3, 2012
Party: Paul and Dietrich Belitz
Route: NW Books 5.9 variation
Equipment: Alpine rack to Camalot #3
Time: 90 minutes
Trip report:
I took the first pitch, Paul the second with the 5.9 crack. The most intimidating part of the
latter is the traverse above the crack.
Date: August 15, 2010
Party: Paul and Dietrich Belitz
Route: NW Books Variation
Equipment: Alpine rack to Camalot #3
Time: 90 minutes
Trip report:
We had come to Tuolomne to acclimatize for Mt. Whitney, and after spending much of our
first day on the Bunny Slopes we still wanted to top out on something, so we decided to
repeat Lembert. Dietrich took the first pitch, Paul the second one with the 5.9 crack.
Soon we were on the summit, then headed down to make sure we'd catch enough sleep as
we wanted to do Matthes Crest the next day.
Photo Gallery:
Click the thumbnails to see a higher resolution image
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View West from the start of the climb. |
Dietrich at the start of the first pitch ... |
... and approaching the undercling section. |
Paul stemming the 5.9 corner. |
On the summit. |
For earlier ascents, click here .
mountainproject.com 
