Joshua Tree National Park

JTree is a very nice region in the Mojave desert offering thousands of high-quality routes on granite in an impressive desert environment. A great winter and spring destination, it has mostly trad and mixed climbing with some fully bolted slabs thrown in. The ratings can be stiff and inconsistent. Many ratings have been upgraded over time, some dramatically so, but others have not. The pro tends to be sparse, and the descents scary and often less than obvious. Many routes that would be rated R in most other places come with no such warning, and many routes that would qualify for an X elsewhere come with an R at best. This is not your typical cragging area; if something doesn't feel right, don't climb it!
References: R. Vogel, Rock Climbing Joshua Tree, Globe Pequot (1992)
B. Gaines, Best Climbs Joshua Tree , Globe Pequot (2012)
Mountain Project

Real Hidden Valley, Joshua Tree National Park.

5.4

The Bong (Hidden Valley Campground; The Blob - North Face ) (5.4, gear to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 05/03/2011 lead
comments: Surprisingly nice route. A short second pitch (no pro) brings one to the top of the formation. To get down, walk to climber's left from the top of the route proper, then descend broken fourth class ledges on darker rock (steep and exposed) in the general direction of where you started.

5.5

Donna T's Route (Indian Cove; Short Wall - South Face ) (5.5, gear to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 5/1/2011 lead
comments: Nice crack with reasonable pro.

5.6

Cottonmouth (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.6 X, or TR)
ascents: 5/04/2011 TR
comments: Set up a TR from the anchors of Serpent Scales.

Double Dip (Echo Rock Area; Echo Rock - West Face ) (5.6, gear to #4 Camalot, bolts)
ascents: 12/24/2006 lead
comments: Climbs the huge flake on the W side of Echo Rock.

Eff Four (Echo Rock Area; Echo Rock - West Face ) (5.6, gear to #3.5 Camalot)
ascents: 12/24/2006 lead
comments: From the top of the first pitch (a full 60m) one can rappel off of two bolts with rap anchors, or/and go to the summit of Echo Rock via an unexposed free solo.

Gotcha Bush (Indian Cove; Short Wall - Right Side ) (5.6 X or TR)
ascents: 5/1/2011 TR
comments: No pro; set up an anchor after climbing a protectable route nearby. The namesake bush seems to no longer exist; maybe one climber too many stepped on it. Vogel's rating is 5.4; the MP consensus is 5.6.

Serpent Scales (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.6, bolts)
ascents: 5/04/2011 lead
3/17/2012 lead
comments: Climbs the large patina features just to the right of the smooth light-colored part of the wall. 3 bolts.

S.O.B (Indian Cove; Short Wall - Right Side ) (5.6, gear to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 5/1/2011 lead
comments: A short and easy-to-protect crack.

5.7

Chivalry's Not Dead (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.7, bolts)
ascents: 5/4/2011 lead
comments: There seems to be wholesale confusion about the routes on this part of the wall. The beta photo on mountainproject.com has it right, but the route descriptions don't. Vogel's book lists the route in the right order, but there is no photo and the fact that he lists Water Moccasin as the by far easiest route on the wall (which is not true) does not help. Chivalry is the second from (climber's) left on the dark part of the wall left of Harrell-Turner. It is not the same as Eyes of Amber, which is the bolted route to the left of it.

Eyes of Amber (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.7, bolts)
ascents: 5/4/2011 lead
comments: There seems to be wholesale confusion about the routes on this part of the wall. The beta photo on mountainproject.com has it right, but the route descriptions don't. Vogel's book lists the route in the right order, but there is no photo and the fact that he lists Water Water Moccasin as the by far easiest route on the wall (which is not true) does not help. Eyes is the (climber's) leftmost route on the dark part of the wall left of Harrell-Turner. It is not the same as Chivalry's Not Dead, which is the bolted route to the right of it. It's 5.7 if you traverse in from the right; the direct start is harder.

Lickety Splits (Hall of Horrors Area; Hall of Horrors - East Wall ) (5.7R, stoppers and cams to #2 Camalot)
ascents: 05/02/2011 TR (set up from Diamond Dogs)
03/31/2017 TR (set up from Diamong Dogs)
comments: A nice finger crack leads to an unprotected slab (5.6X).

Overhang Bypass ( Intersection Rock ) (5.7, gear to #3.5 Camalot plus 1 bolt)
ascents: 12/22/2006 lead
comments: Amazing route with a wild crux hand-traversing out of the cave. The face above the overhang is protected by a bolt. Physical and committing; not for the aspiring 5.7 leader.

Stichter Quits ( Echo Rock - West Face ) (5.7, bolts)
ascents: 12/24/2006 lead
03/18/2017 lead + TR
comments: Nice dike route. Rappel with two 60m ropes, or walk off.

Toe Jam (Hidden Valley Campground; Old Woman - East Face ) (5.7, gear to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 05/03/2011 lead
03/18/2012 lead
03/19/2016 lead
03/18/2017 lead
04/01/2018 lead
comments: High-quality route; protects well with cams and stoppers. Rap anchors are 15 feet to the right of the top.

Water Moccasin (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.7, bolts)
ascents: 5/4/2011 lead
comments: Vogel rates it 5.4. Mountainproject's consensus rating of 5.7 seems more realistic.

5.7+

comment: One peculiarity of JTree are the 5.n+ ratings (1 ≤ n ≤ 9). They seem to be assigned to routes for which the contemporary consensus rating is way higher than the historical rating. Reading 5.7+ as "a 5.7 that's really a 5.8 that feels like a 5.9" may be more realistic than "at the upper end of 5.7".

Double Cross (Hidden Valley Campground; Old Woman - West Face ) (5.7+, gear to #4 Camalot)
ascents: 12/22/2006 second (PB led)
03/18/2012 second (PB led)
03/19/2016 second (PB led)
03/18/2017 lead
comments: High-quality jams from fingers to fists. Take medium to large stoppers and double cams from 0.75 to 3 plus one #3.5 or 4. The crack protects very well, but take care getting there! Rated 5.8 in the new book.

Walk on the Wild Side (Sheep Pass Area; Saddle Rocks - Skirt ) (5.7+, bolts)
ascents: 5/2/2011 (swung leads with PB)
comments: Scramble up to the shelf at the foot of the slab that faces the road. The three-pitch route starts at the highest point of the shelf. (NB: The sketch on the Park Service sign in the parking lot is wrong!) Hard for the grade, with long runouts. To descend, rappel with double ropes, or traverse around the corner toward the highest summit to a rap anchor. Two rappels with a steep 4th class downclimb in between lead into a gully filled with huge boulders. Pick your way down, and at some point scramble over the outside wall of the gully to reach easier ground. This descent was the scene of a fatal accident in spring 2011.

5.8

Cryptic (Indian Cove; Headstone Rock ) (5.8, bolts)
ascents: 3/18/2012 lead
comments: One of the wilder 5.8s around. Rappel the opposite side from rap anchors, scramble back to the start.

Driving Limitations (Indian Cove; Billboard Buttress ) (5.8, bolts)
ascents: 3/18/2012 lead
comments: Easy for the grade unless one insists on going straight past the bolts.

El Chivo (Indian Cove; The Bilbo Buttresses ) (5.8, bolts)
ascents: 3/17/2012 lead
comments: A new bolted route; not in Vogel's book.

Right'N Up (Indian Cove; Short Wall - Right Side ) (5.8 X or TR)
ascents: 5/1/2011 TR
comments: Set up an anchor after climbing a protectable route nearby.

Sail Away (Real Hidden Valley; Hidden Tower (5.8, gear to #2 Camalot)
ascents: 12/22/2006 lead
05/03/2011 TR (PB led)
03/20/2016 lead
comments: Protects well with stoppers and cams. For the exit, use both cracks or traverse left on good holds.

5.8+

Dog Leg (Indian Cove; The Old Woman - West Face ) (5.8+, gear to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 03/30/2018 second (PB led)
comments: Hard and insecure start with a terrible landing zone. Sustained and hard for the grade.

5.9

Bee's Knees ( Split Rocks , Isles in the Sky ) (5.9, bolts)
ascents: 3/30/2018 lead
comments: Very well protected by JTree standards.

Boulderdash ( Echo Cove, S Side ) (5.9, gear)
ascents: 3/18/2017 TR (PB led)
comments: We did the V0- start variation. The corner crack is superb. Rated 5.9+ PG in the new book.

Count On Your Fingers (Real Hidden Valley; Thin Wall ) (5.9, gear or TR)
ascents: 12/23/2006 TR
03/20/2016 TR
03/31/2018 TR
comments: Thin Wall has a walk-up scramble from the East.

North Overhang ( Intersection Rock ) (5.9, gear plus 2 bolts)
ascents: 3/20/2016 lead (1st pitch), second (2nd pitch)
comments: The crux is moving out of the cave around the left corner. It is protected by two bolts, but people regularly get hurt when they fall before they can get a piece in above the second bolt. People swear up and down it's only 5.9, but to me the start of the second pitch felt harder, and in any case it deserves to be treated with respect and probably an R rating.

Pinky and the Brain ( Split Rocks ; Isles in the Sky ) (5.9, bolts)
ascents: 4/1/2018 lead
comments: On the SE side of the formation, around the corner from Birds of Fire. Weird start (one can go around the second bolt on 4th class). Easy for the grade and very well (over)bolted.

R.M.L. ( Echo Cove Rock, SW Face ) (5.9, gear plus 3 bolts)
ascents: 3/18/2017 TR (PB led)
comments: A strenuous start followed by a wild mantle leads to thin face climbing. Tough lead.

Sexy Grandma (Hidden Valley Campground; Old Woman - West Face ) (5.9 bolts and fixed pins)
ascents: 3/19/2016 lead
3/19/2017 lead
comments: One of the rare JTree routes that are fully bolted and entirely safe (except for getting to the first bolt). An optional cam will protect the hike to the anchors after the last bolt.

Snakes in the Grass (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.9, TR)
ascents: 5/4/2011 TR
comments: There seems to be wholesale confusion about the routes on this part of the wall. The beta photo on mountainproject.com has it right, but the route descriptions don't. Vogel's book lists the route in the right order, but there is no photo and the fact that he lists Water Water Moccasin as the by far easiest route on the wall (which is not true) does not help. Snakes is just to climber's left of Water Moccasin; the crux is getting over a bulge low on the route.

Touch and Go (Echo Rock Area; Touch and Go Face ) (5.9, gear to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 12/24/2006 second
comments: Very nice crack in a dihedral. Getting back down is a pain (5.6 downclimb into a gully).

Wild Wind (Real Hidden Valley; Hidden Tower ) (5.9, gear to #2 Camalot, or TR)
ascents: 12/22/2006 TR
comments: Shares anchors with Sail Away.

5.9+

Lickety Dogs (Hall of Horrors; East Wall ) (5.9+ X or TR)
ascents: 5/2/2011 TR (set up from Diamond Dogs)
comments: Called Likey Dogs in Vogel's book, this is the arete between Diamond Dogs and Lickety Splits. Unprotected; set up TR from the Lickety Splits/Diamond Dogs anchor. Hard for the grade.

5.10a

Bird of Fire ( Split Rocks , Isles in the Sky ) (5.10a, nuts and cams to #2 Camalot)
ascents: 03/30/20187 second (PB led)
comments: A wild undercling/layback start gives way to sparsely protected face climbing. Cool route, but not for the faint-of-heart leader.

Diamond Dogs (Hall of Horrors; East Wall ) (5.10a, cams to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 05/02/2011 second (PB led)
03/31/2018 TR (PB led)
comments: A wild undercling/layback start gives way to sparsely protected face climbing. Cool route, but not for the faint-of-heart leader.

Exorcist (Hall of Horrors; Hall of Horrors - East Wall Inner ) (5.10a, cams and stoppers to #2 Camalot)
ascents: 03/31/2018 TR (PB led)
comments: Laybacks alternating with thin fingers lead to a face section (1 bolt). As hard as Karate Crack at Smith.

Loo Sanction (aka Mt Witness) ( Outhouse Rock - East Face ) (5.10a, 3 bolts, gear to #3 Camalot for anchor and finish)
ascents: 4/1/2018 2nd (PB led)
comments: The first 30 feet are dirty, dangerous, and unprotectable. Finishes on the upper part of Straight Flush (5.8). Take enough gear!

Morning Warm-Up (Indian Cove; Short Wall - Right Side ) (5.10a X or TR)
ascents: 5/1/2011 TR
comments: An anchor can be set up with medium-to-large cams after climbing one of the easier routes nearby. To me it felt awfully hard for the grade.

No Calculators Allowed (Real Hidden Valley; Thin Wall ) (5.10a, gear or TR)
ascents: 12/23/2006 TR
03/31/2018 TR
comments: Not really harder than Count On Your Fingers.

Not Forgotten (Real Hidden Valley; Hidden Tower ) (5.10a, gear from very thin to #2 Camalot, or TR)
ascents: 12/22/2006 TR
comments: Shares anchors with Sail Away. The crux is low and not easy to protect (take microcams).

Pinched Rib ( Chimney Rock - West Face ) (5.10a, 2 bolts, gear to medium cams for belay and descent)
ascents: 3/31/2018 2nd, 1 hang (PB led)
comments: To descend walk right and downclimb the obvious crack past the tree.

Popular Mechanics (Quail Springs Area; The White Cliffs of Dover ) (5.10a, gear)
ascents: 3/19/2016 TR (PB led)
comments: Start left and step over the gap. The crux is where the crack disappears for about three feet.

Right Baskerville Crack (Quail Springs Area; Baskerville Rock ) (5.10a, gear)
ascents: 3/19/2016 TR (PB led)
comments: Unprotected start; tricky crux.

Silent Scream (Indian Cove; Pixie Rock ) (5.10a, bolts, medium cams for anchor)
ascents: 3/18/2012 second (PB led)
comments: High-quality route. The horizontal crack below the last bolt takes an optional medium-sized cam. After the last bolt, move left, NOT right! Cams to #3 camalot for an anchor. Scramble down the opposite side (4th class).

5.10b

Harrell-Turner (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.10b R or TR)
ascents: 5/04/2011 TR, hangs
3/17/2012 TR, 2 hangs
comments: Climbs the smooth light-colored face to the left of Serpent Scales. The first bolt got chopped. Can easily be toproped from the Serpent Scales anchors. Hard for the grade.

Laura Scudders (Barker Dam Area; Lakeside Rock - West Face (5.10b, bolts, cams to #3 Camalot for anchors)
ascents: 12/23/2006 lead onsight
comments: Very thin on crumbly edges.

Papa Woolsey (Hidden Valley Campground; The Blob - SE Face ) (5.10b, bolts, cams to #3 Camalot for anchors and "walkoff")
ascents: 3/19/2017 second (French freed the crux move past the second bolt)
comments: Thin edges and steep friction. To get off we did an easy 5th class traverse to climber's left followed by an unprotectable easy 5th class downclimb into the boulder caves at the start of Buissonier.

5.10d

Bee Gees ( Split Rocks , Isles in the Sky ) (5.10d, bolts)
ascents: 3/30/2018 TR, 1 fall
comments: This deserves an R rating at the very least. Shares anchors with Bee's Knees to the right.

Hobbit Roof (Hidden Valley Campground; The Blob - West Face (5.10d, Camalots #0.75 - 3, 1 bolt)
ascents: 5/3/2011 TR with aid
3/20/2016 TR, 1 hang at the bolt
3/19/2017 TR, 1 hang at the bolt
comments: In 2011 I got shut down by both the face move and the start of the crack, finally resorting to direct aid. In 2016 and 2017 I did it clean on TR from just below the slab crux. For the slab crux, leave left foot in the crack and put right foot on the lowest reasonable edge. Find a small edge for right hand below the obvious marginal hold with thumb counterpressure; this helps high-stepping right onto the small edge. For starting the crack, face right, undercling the crack below the roof with left hand, toe jam right foot, heel hock left foot, and get right hand in the vertical crack thumb down. Then highstep with right.

5.11a

Congratulations (Real Hidden Valley; Thin Wall ) (5.11a R, gear or TR)
ascents: 12/23/2006 TR flash
comments: Cool route! Flashed it with lots of beta from Paul.

JTree is a very nice region in the Mojave desert offering thousands of high-quality routes on granite in an impressive desert environment. A great winter and spring destination, it has mostly trad and mixed climbing with some fully bolted slabs thrown in. The ratings can be stiff and inconsistent. Many ratings have been upgraded over time, some dramatically so, but others have not. The pro tends to be sparse, and the descents scary and often less than obvious. Many routes that would be rated R in most other places come with no such warning, and many routes that would qualify for an X elsewhere come with an R at best. This is not your typical cragging area; if something doesn't feel right, don't climb it! References: R. Vogel, Rock Climbing Joshua Tree, Globe Pequot (1992) B. Gaines, Best Climbs Joshua Tree , Globe Pequot (2012) Mountain Project	Real Hidden Valley, Joshua Tree National Park.
5.4
The Bong (Hidden Valley Campground; The Blob - North Face ) (5.4, gear to #3 Camalot) ascents: 05/03/2011 lead comments: Surprisingly nice route. A short second pitch (no pro) brings one to the top of the formation. To get down, walk to climber's left from the top of the route proper, then descend broken fourth class ledges on darker rock (steep and exposed) in the general direction of where you started.
5.5
Donna T's Route (Indian Cove; Short Wall - South Face ) (5.5, gear to #3 Camalot) ascents: 5/1/2011 lead comments: Nice crack with reasonable pro.
5.6
Cottonmouth (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.6 X, or TR) ascents: 5/04/2011 TR comments: Set up a TR from the anchors of Serpent Scales.
Double Dip (Echo Rock Area; Echo Rock - West Face ) (5.6, gear to #4 Camalot, bolts) ascents: 12/24/2006 lead comments: Climbs the huge flake on the W side of Echo Rock.
Eff Four (Echo Rock Area; Echo Rock - West Face ) (5.6, gear to #3.5 Camalot) ascents: 12/24/2006 lead comments: From the top of the first pitch (a full 60m) one can rappel off of two bolts with rap anchors, or/and go to the summit of Echo Rock via an unexposed free solo.
Gotcha Bush (Indian Cove; Short Wall - Right Side ) (5.6 X or TR) ascents: 5/1/2011 TR comments: No pro; set up an anchor after climbing a protectable route nearby. The namesake bush seems to no longer exist; maybe one climber too many stepped on it. Vogel's rating is 5.4; the MP consensus is 5.6.
Serpent Scales (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.6, bolts) ascents: 5/04/2011 lead 3/17/2012 lead comments: Climbs the large patina features just to the right of the smooth light-colored part of the wall. 3 bolts.
S.O.B (Indian Cove; Short Wall - Right Side ) (5.6, gear to #3 Camalot) ascents: 5/1/2011 lead comments: A short and easy-to-protect crack.
5.7
Chivalry's Not Dead (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.7, bolts) ascents: 5/4/2011 lead comments: There seems to be wholesale confusion about the routes on this part of the wall. The beta photo on mountainproject.com has it right, but the route descriptions don't. Vogel's book lists the route in the right order, but there is no photo and the fact that he lists Water Moccasin as the by far easiest route on the wall (which is not true) does not help. Chivalry is the second from (climber's) left on the dark part of the wall left of Harrell-Turner. It is not the same as Eyes of Amber, which is the bolted route to the left of it.
Eyes of Amber (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.7, bolts) ascents: 5/4/2011 lead comments: There seems to be wholesale confusion about the routes on this part of the wall. The beta photo on mountainproject.com has it right, but the route descriptions don't. Vogel's book lists the route in the right order, but there is no photo and the fact that he lists Water Water Moccasin as the by far easiest route on the wall (which is not true) does not help. Eyes is the (climber's) leftmost route on the dark part of the wall left of Harrell-Turner. It is not the same as Chivalry's Not Dead, which is the bolted route to the right of it. It's 5.7 if you traverse in from the right; the direct start is harder.
Lickety Splits (Hall of Horrors Area; Hall of Horrors - East Wall ) (5.7R, stoppers and cams to #2 Camalot) ascents: 05/02/2011 TR (set up from Diamond Dogs) 03/31/2017 TR (set up from Diamong Dogs) comments: A nice finger crack leads to an unprotected slab (5.6X).
Overhang Bypass ( Intersection Rock ) (5.7, gear to #3.5 Camalot plus 1 bolt) ascents: 12/22/2006 lead comments: Amazing route with a wild crux hand-traversing out of the cave. The face above the overhang is protected by a bolt. Physical and committing; not for the aspiring 5.7 leader.
Stichter Quits ( Echo Rock - West Face ) (5.7, bolts) ascents: 12/24/2006 lead 03/18/2017 lead + TR comments: Nice dike route. Rappel with two 60m ropes, or walk off.
Toe Jam (Hidden Valley Campground; Old Woman - East Face ) (5.7, gear to #3 Camalot) ascents: 05/03/2011 lead 03/18/2012 lead 03/19/2016 lead 03/18/2017 lead 04/01/2018 lead comments: High-quality route; protects well with cams and stoppers. Rap anchors are 15 feet to the right of the top.
Water Moccasin (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.7, bolts) ascents: 5/4/2011 lead comments: Vogel rates it 5.4. Mountainproject's consensus rating of 5.7 seems more realistic.
5.7+ comment: One peculiarity of JTree are the 5.n+ ratings (1 ≤ n ≤ 9). They seem to be assigned to routes for which the contemporary consensus rating is way higher than the historical rating. Reading 5.7+ as "a 5.7 that's really a 5.8 that feels like a 5.9" may be more realistic than "at the upper end of 5.7".
Double Cross (Hidden Valley Campground; Old Woman - West Face ) (5.7+, gear to #4 Camalot) ascents: 12/22/2006 second (PB led) 03/18/2012 second (PB led) 03/19/2016 second (PB led) 03/18/2017 lead comments: High-quality jams from fingers to fists. Take medium to large stoppers and double cams from 0.75 to 3 plus one #3.5 or 4. The crack protects very well, but take care getting there! Rated 5.8 in the new book.
Walk on the Wild Side (Sheep Pass Area; Saddle Rocks - Skirt ) (5.7+, bolts) ascents: 5/2/2011 (swung leads with PB) comments: Scramble up to the shelf at the foot of the slab that faces the road. The three-pitch route starts at the highest point of the shelf. (NB: The sketch on the Park Service sign in the parking lot is wrong!) Hard for the grade, with long runouts. To descend, rappel with double ropes, or traverse around the corner toward the highest summit to a rap anchor. Two rappels with a steep 4th class downclimb in between lead into a gully filled with huge boulders. Pick your way down, and at some point scramble over the outside wall of the gully to reach easier ground. This descent was the scene of a fatal accident in spring 2011.
5.8
Cryptic (Indian Cove; Headstone Rock ) (5.8, bolts) ascents: 3/18/2012 lead comments: One of the wilder 5.8s around. Rappel the opposite side from rap anchors, scramble back to the start.
Driving Limitations (Indian Cove; Billboard Buttress ) (5.8, bolts) ascents: 3/18/2012 lead comments: Easy for the grade unless one insists on going straight past the bolts.
El Chivo (Indian Cove; The Bilbo Buttresses ) (5.8, bolts) ascents: 3/17/2012 lead comments: A new bolted route; not in Vogel's book.
Right'N Up (Indian Cove; Short Wall - Right Side ) (5.8 X or TR) ascents: 5/1/2011 TR comments: Set up an anchor after climbing a protectable route nearby.
Sail Away (Real Hidden Valley; Hidden Tower (5.8, gear to #2 Camalot) ascents: 12/22/2006 lead 05/03/2011 TR (PB led) 03/20/2016 lead comments: Protects well with stoppers and cams. For the exit, use both cracks or traverse left on good holds.
5.8+
Dog Leg (Indian Cove; The Old Woman - West Face ) (5.8+, gear to #3 Camalot) ascents: 03/30/2018 second (PB led) comments: Hard and insecure start with a terrible landing zone. Sustained and hard for the grade.
5.9
Bee's Knees ( Split Rocks , Isles in the Sky ) (5.9, bolts) ascents: 3/30/2018 lead comments: Very well protected by JTree standards.
Boulderdash ( Echo Cove, S Side ) (5.9, gear) ascents: 3/18/2017 TR (PB led) comments: We did the V0- start variation. The corner crack is superb. Rated 5.9+ PG in the new book.
Count On Your Fingers (Real Hidden Valley; Thin Wall ) (5.9, gear or TR) ascents: 12/23/2006 TR 03/20/2016 TR 03/31/2018 TR comments: Thin Wall has a walk-up scramble from the East.
North Overhang ( Intersection Rock ) (5.9, gear plus 2 bolts) ascents: 3/20/2016 lead (1st pitch), second (2nd pitch) comments: The crux is moving out of the cave around the left corner. It is protected by two bolts, but people regularly get hurt when they fall before they can get a piece in above the second bolt. People swear up and down it's only 5.9, but to me the start of the second pitch felt harder, and in any case it deserves to be treated with respect and probably an R rating.
Pinky and the Brain ( Split Rocks ; Isles in the Sky ) (5.9, bolts) ascents: 4/1/2018 lead comments: On the SE side of the formation, around the corner from Birds of Fire. Weird start (one can go around the second bolt on 4th class). Easy for the grade and very well (over)bolted.
R.M.L. ( Echo Cove Rock, SW Face ) (5.9, gear plus 3 bolts) ascents: 3/18/2017 TR (PB led) comments: A strenuous start followed by a wild mantle leads to thin face climbing. Tough lead.
Sexy Grandma (Hidden Valley Campground; Old Woman - West Face ) (5.9 bolts and fixed pins) ascents: 3/19/2016 lead 3/19/2017 lead comments: One of the rare JTree routes that are fully bolted and entirely safe (except for getting to the first bolt). An optional cam will protect the hike to the anchors after the last bolt.
Snakes in the Grass (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.9, TR) ascents: 5/4/2011 TR comments: There seems to be wholesale confusion about the routes on this part of the wall. The beta photo on mountainproject.com has it right, but the route descriptions don't. Vogel's book lists the route in the right order, but there is no photo and the fact that he lists Water Water Moccasin as the by far easiest route on the wall (which is not true) does not help. Snakes is just to climber's left of Water Moccasin; the crux is getting over a bulge low on the route.
Touch and Go (Echo Rock Area; Touch and Go Face ) (5.9, gear to #3 Camalot) ascents: 12/24/2006 second comments: Very nice crack in a dihedral. Getting back down is a pain (5.6 downclimb into a gully).
Wild Wind (Real Hidden Valley; Hidden Tower ) (5.9, gear to #2 Camalot, or TR) ascents: 12/22/2006 TR comments: Shares anchors with Sail Away.
5.9+
Lickety Dogs (Hall of Horrors; East Wall ) (5.9+ X or TR) ascents: 5/2/2011 TR (set up from Diamond Dogs) comments: Called Likey Dogs in Vogel's book, this is the arete between Diamond Dogs and Lickety Splits. Unprotected; set up TR from the Lickety Splits/Diamond Dogs anchor. Hard for the grade.
5.10a
Bird of Fire ( Split Rocks , Isles in the Sky ) (5.10a, nuts and cams to #2 Camalot) ascents: 03/30/20187 second (PB led) comments: A wild undercling/layback start gives way to sparsely protected face climbing. Cool route, but not for the faint-of-heart leader.
Diamond Dogs (Hall of Horrors; East Wall ) (5.10a, cams to #3 Camalot) ascents: 05/02/2011 second (PB led) 03/31/2018 TR (PB led) comments: A wild undercling/layback start gives way to sparsely protected face climbing. Cool route, but not for the faint-of-heart leader.
Exorcist (Hall of Horrors; Hall of Horrors - East Wall Inner ) (5.10a, cams and stoppers to #2 Camalot) ascents: 03/31/2018 TR (PB led) comments: Laybacks alternating with thin fingers lead to a face section (1 bolt). As hard as Karate Crack at Smith.
Loo Sanction (aka Mt Witness) ( Outhouse Rock - East Face ) (5.10a, 3 bolts, gear to #3 Camalot for anchor and finish) ascents: 4/1/2018 2nd (PB led) comments: The first 30 feet are dirty, dangerous, and unprotectable. Finishes on the upper part of Straight Flush (5.8). Take enough gear!
Morning Warm-Up (Indian Cove; Short Wall - Right Side ) (5.10a X or TR) ascents: 5/1/2011 TR comments: An anchor can be set up with medium-to-large cams after climbing one of the easier routes nearby. To me it felt awfully hard for the grade.
No Calculators Allowed (Real Hidden Valley; Thin Wall ) (5.10a, gear or TR) ascents: 12/23/2006 TR 03/31/2018 TR comments: Not really harder than Count On Your Fingers.
Not Forgotten (Real Hidden Valley; Hidden Tower ) (5.10a, gear from very thin to #2 Camalot, or TR) ascents: 12/22/2006 TR comments: Shares anchors with Sail Away. The crux is low and not easy to protect (take microcams).
Pinched Rib ( Chimney Rock - West Face ) (5.10a, 2 bolts, gear to medium cams for belay and descent) ascents: 3/31/2018 2nd, 1 hang (PB led) comments: To descend walk right and downclimb the obvious crack past the tree.
Popular Mechanics (Quail Springs Area; The White Cliffs of Dover ) (5.10a, gear) ascents: 3/19/2016 TR (PB led) comments: Start left and step over the gap. The crux is where the crack disappears for about three feet.
Right Baskerville Crack (Quail Springs Area; Baskerville Rock ) (5.10a, gear) ascents: 3/19/2016 TR (PB led) comments: Unprotected start; tricky crux.
Silent Scream (Indian Cove; Pixie Rock ) (5.10a, bolts, medium cams for anchor) ascents: 3/18/2012 second (PB led) comments: High-quality route. The horizontal crack below the last bolt takes an optional medium-sized cam. After the last bolt, move left, NOT right! Cams to #3 camalot for an anchor. Scramble down the opposite side (4th class).
5.10b
Harrell-Turner (Indian Cove; Indian Palisades Corridor ) (5.10b R or TR) ascents: 5/04/2011 TR, hangs 3/17/2012 TR, 2 hangs comments: Climbs the smooth light-colored face to the left of Serpent Scales. The first bolt got chopped. Can easily be toproped from the Serpent Scales anchors. Hard for the grade.
Laura Scudders (Barker Dam Area; Lakeside Rock - West Face (5.10b, bolts, cams to #3 Camalot for anchors) ascents: 12/23/2006 lead onsight comments: Very thin on crumbly edges.
Papa Woolsey (Hidden Valley Campground; The Blob - SE Face ) (5.10b, bolts, cams to #3 Camalot for anchors and "walkoff") ascents: 3/19/2017 second (French freed the crux move past the second bolt) comments: Thin edges and steep friction. To get off we did an easy 5th class traverse to climber's left followed by an unprotectable easy 5th class downclimb into the boulder caves at the start of Buissonier.
5.10d
Bee Gees ( Split Rocks , Isles in the Sky ) (5.10d, bolts) ascents: 3/30/2018 TR, 1 fall comments: This deserves an R rating at the very least. Shares anchors with Bee's Knees to the right.
Hobbit Roof (Hidden Valley Campground; The Blob - West Face (5.10d, Camalots #0.75 - 3, 1 bolt) ascents: 5/3/2011 TR with aid 3/20/2016 TR, 1 hang at the bolt 3/19/2017 TR, 1 hang at the bolt comments: In 2011 I got shut down by both the face move and the start of the crack, finally resorting to direct aid. In 2016 and 2017 I did it clean on TR from just below the slab crux. For the slab crux, leave left foot in the crack and put right foot on the lowest reasonable edge. Find a small edge for right hand below the obvious marginal hold with thumb counterpressure; this helps high-stepping right onto the small edge. For starting the crack, face right, undercling the crack below the roof with left hand, toe jam right foot, heel hock left foot, and get right hand in the vertical crack thumb down. Then highstep with right.
5.11a
Congratulations (Real Hidden Valley; Thin Wall ) (5.11a R, gear or TR) ascents: 12/23/2006 TR flash comments: Cool route! Flashed it with lots of beta from Paul.