Tuolomne Meadows (Yosemite National Park)


Yosemite National Park offers climbing from 90' crags to 3,000'-plus big walls, and everything in between. The boundary between cragging and climbing is ill defined of course, so it's really up to you what you want to call a climb. The cragging routes listed below are all located in the Tuolomne Meadows section of the park.

Puppy Crack ( Puppy Dome ) (5.6, gear to #3 camalot)
ascents: 08/3/2005 lead
comments: Very easy for the grade. We also did the second pitch, which is even easier.
Hot Crossed Buns ( Bunny Slopes ) (5.6, Bolts)
ascents: 08/27/2005 lead
09/13/2008 TR
08/15/2008 lead
comments: On Bunny Slopes above Tioga Highway. Runout. Take two ropes if you want to get down!
Errett Out (1st pitch) ( Dozier Dome ) (5.7 R-, bolts)
ascents: 08/30/2009 second
comments: A runout 5.7 friction slab start is followed by superb knobs. Two 60m ropes are needed for getting down.
Frogger ( Murphy Creek) (5.7, gear, the larger the better)
ascents: 08/14/2011 TR (PB led)
comments: One of the scarier 5.7s I've ever seen. I backed down after being unable to place gear I would trust. PB had no problems.
Mere Image ( Bunny Slopes ) (5.7 R-, Bolts, optional gear #0.5 and 0.75 Camalots)
ascents: 09/13/2008 lead
08/15/2010 lead
comments: Runout. Two ropes needed for rappelling.
Scandalous Summer ( Dozier Dome ) (5.7, bolts)
ascents: 08/10/2014 lead
comments: Continued on Tourrette's
Wild in the Streaks ( Bunny Slopes ) (5.7, Bolts)
ascents: 08/15/2010 lead
comments: Shares anchors with Black Diamond.

Paul Belitz leading Little Sheeba (5.10a), Lamb Dome, Tuolumne Meadows.

Alimony Cracks ( Daff Dome South Flank ) (5.8, gear to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 08/05/2012
Biscuit and Gravy ( Bunny Slopes ) (5.8, Bolts, optional gear to #2 Camalot)
ascents: 08/27/2005 TR
09/13/2008 TR
08/15/2008 TR (PB led)
comments: Shares anchors with Hot Crossed Buns. Runout.
Black Diamond ( Bunny Slopes ) (5.9R or TR)
ascents: 08/15/2010 TR (set up from Wild in the Streaks)
comments: Shares anchors with Wild in the Streaks.
Deadheads Delight ( Western Front ) (5.9R or TR)
ascents: 08/04/2012 TR
08/10/2014 TR
08/21/2016 TR
comments: The rightmost of the six routes. Shares anchors with Ace in the Hole.
Gortlough RA ( Murphy Creek ) (5.9, gear to large)
ascents: 08/14/2014 TR
comments: Very physical with OW section. PB led.
Green Ham and Eggs ( Western Front ) (5.9R or TR)
ascents: 08/04/2012 TR
comments: The leftmost of the six routes. Shares anchors with March of Dimes.
Touch of Grey ( Western Front ) (5.9R or TR)
ascents: 08/04/2012 TR
08/10/2014 TR
08/21/2016 TR
comments: The third route from the right.
Trick Shot ( Canopy World ) (5.9, gear to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 08/28/2009 second
comments: Crux is switching cracks. PB led.
X-Wing ( Murphy Creek ) (5.9, gear)
ascents: 08/14/2014 TR
comments: Very physical and insecure. PB led.
Ace in the Hole ( Western Front ) (5.10aR or TR)
ascents: 08/04/2012 TR
08/10/2014 TR
08/21/2016 TR
comments: The second route from the right. Shares anchors with Deadheads Delight.
Little Sheeba ( Lamb Dome ) (5.10a, gear to #3 Camalot)
ascents: 09/13/2008 second (PB led)
08/22/2016 second (PB led)
comments: Finger crack, hard for the grade. Felt less desperate in 2016 than in 2008. I climbed this earlier than 2008 on TR (2004?)
March of Dimes ( Western Front ) (5.10aR or TR)
ascents: 08/04/2012 TR
08/21/2016 TR
comments: The second route from the left. Shares anchors with Green Ham and Eggs.
New Tricks for Old Dogs ( Western Front ) (5.10bR or TR)
ascents: 08/04/2012 TR
08/21/2016 TR
comments: The third route from the right.
Tourrette's ( Dozier Dome ) (5.10b, bolts)
ascents: 08/10/2014 second (PB led)
comments: Hard start. Paul went straight up, I went around the corner to the left on steep friction. The approach pitch (Scandalous Summer) is about 5.7.
Footnote ( Stately Pleasure Dome ) (5.10c R, bolts)
ascents: 08/24/2016 TR with several hangs
comments: Incredibly hard and sustained for the grade. Sparsely bolted, but a TR can be easily set up by traversing right just under the Hermaphrodite Flake. A 60m rope reaches the start just barely.
Polsky Wyrob ( Canopy World ) (5.11b R, bolts)
ascents: 08/28/2009 TR minus the start and with one hang
comments: The 11b rating seems to refer to the first move. I cheated by pulling on the draw. The rest is thin 10+ or 11-.