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Dozier Dome, which is more of a cliff than a dome, is located behind Pywiack Dome. It
is reached by a short walk from the highway starting at a trailhead just east of Pywiack
Dome. The routes include the classic ``Holdless Horror'' (the name is a joke).
Routes: Holdless Horror (I, 5.6)
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Date: August 26, 2017
Party: Dietrich and Paul Belitz
Route: Bull Dozier
Equipment: Rack to Camalot #3
Time: 3 hours car to car
Trip report:
We had not been at the western end of Dozier Dome since 2009, and we chose Bull Dozier as a warmup climb. I led the first pitch and the easy third pitch, Paul the second. The starting slab is easy friction, but the start of the crack is kind of high up, and the crux move on the second pitch feels hard for the grade. The third pitch is exposed 3rd class; we stayed roped up but I placed only one piece. The walkoff is very scenic.
Date: August 30, 2009
Party: Dietrich and Paul Belitz
Route: Holdless Horror
Equipment: Rack to Camalot #4
Time: 2 hours
Trip report:
For the last day of our trip we decided to go for something with an easier approach than Matthes Crest, which we originally had contemplated. Dozier Dome fit the bill, and turned out to be quite nice. Holdless Horror is anything but what the name (which results from a joke by the first ascensionists) suggests. If done as a 5.0 offwidth it's very awkward, but as a 5.6 stemming route it's very enjoyable. Both the angle and the difficulty ease after the first pitch, and the walkoff towards the west is very impressive, with colorfull watermarks all over the slopes. We finished the day (and the trip) by climbing the first pitch of Errett Out.
Dietrich at the first belay. |
Paul on the second pitch. |
Paul on the summit. |
Paul on the descent. |
Watermarks on the west slopes. |
The NW corner of Dozier Dome. |
Bull Dozier (I, 5.7)
