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Stately Pleasure Dome is barely a local maximum on the ridge north of Tenaya Lake that leads northwest
to Polly Dome (Point 9,806). It contains several high-quality routes.
Routes: Hermaphrodite Flake (II, 5.8)
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Date: August 27, 2017
Party: Dietrich and Paul Belitz
Route: West Country
Equipment: Alpine rack
Time: 4 1/2 hrs car to car
Trip report:
I led pitches one and three, Paul led the approach pitch and pitches 2 and 4. We descended the same way as in 2015 (to the west). Another very high-quality route on Stately Pleasure Dome!
Date: August 25, 2015
Party: Dietrich and Paul Belitz
Route: South Crack
Equipment: Alpine rack
Time: 3 1/2 hrs up, 1 hr down
Trip report:
I led the odd pitches, Paul the even ones. From the top of the third pitch we took the right variation. This time we descended to the west, using gullies behind the nasty looking low-angled dihedral. This proved much faster than what we had done the year before.
Date: August 12, 2014
Party: Dietrich and Paul Belitz
Route: Hermaphrodite Flake
Equipment: Alpine rack
Time: 2 hrs up, 2 hrs down
Trip report:
Paul led the first pitch, I led the flake. Halfway up I clipped the anchors of some route to the right (Cross Reference? 11aR?), then got on the flake and ran it out to its tip. Beats me how to tunnel under it; maybe I'm too fat for that. Paul took the next pitch again, then I took the 5.8R traverse at the start of the fourth pitch (technically, I suppose that's the second pitch of The Boltway). It's intimidating on somewhat slick rock, and on the first try I retreated, but on the second try I got to the crack with no problems, placed a piece, sighed a breath of relief and followed the crack to the anchor. From there we hiked up until we could get a bearing. The fourth class descent by the headwall did not look very enticing, so we went up to the poorly defined summit of Stately Pleasure Dome and worked our way northeast until we found a gully that allowed for a third-class descent to the highway.
The flake as seen from the start of the climb. |
Paul following the flake. |
Paul on the summit. |
South Crack (II, 5.8R)
