Three-Fingered Jack (Oregon Cascades; 7,841')

Three-Fingered Jack is an impressive-looking, highly eroded volcano that had gained an "unclimbable" reputation before the first ascent by Ervin McNeal and party in 1923. The rock is horrible in general, but the South Ridge (the only recommended route) is a very enjoyable climb with solid rock on the crux. The knife-edge summit is spectacular. Topo Map Routes: South Ridge (I, 5.1)	Three-Fingered Jack in December from the summit of Maxwell Butte
References: Jeff Thomas, Oregon High Keep Climbing Press (Portland, OR 1991) J. Smoot, Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes Chockstone Press (Evergreen, CO 1992) N.A. Dodge, A Climbing Guide to Oregon , Touchstone Press (Beaverton, OR 1975)

Date: September 30, 2006

Party: DB solo

Route: S Ridge

Equipment: 50m half rope

Time: Santiam Pass - Summit 3 hrs
Summit - Santiam Pass 3 hrs
Roundtrip from Santiam Pass 7 hrs

Comments: Time down includes climbing Point 6961 and the Rockpile

Trip report:

Hunting season had started, and the Forest Service promptly re-opened most of the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness, which had been closed due to the Puzzle Fire. What a coincidence! It was the first time I hiked on the PCT north from Santiam Pass in the summer since the B&B Fire had wiped out the forest in 2003, and the difference is striking. The area now consists pretty much of rather nice meadows with burned snags standing around. Since there now is so much more light a lot of grasses, herbs, and shrubs are growing, but no tree seedlings yet. I hiked the sandy trail in 90 minutes to the climbers trail below the west flank of Jack, and started my way up the scree slopes.

I heard people high above me, and mentally prepared myself for a long wait on the technical part. However, one of the two parties I passed at the start of the catwalk before The Crawl, where they chose to rope up, and the second one I squeezed by just above The Crawl. So I had the summit block to myself, and things worked out perfectly in that the second party was ready to tackle the chimney just as I rappelled down. I ate lunch in the notch below the chimney, and then made my way back down.

I stayed on the ridge and climbed back up to Jack's ski summit, Point 6961, descended the southern slopes and intersected the PCT just above the traverse above Summit Lake. Finally, I scrambled up the Rock Pile for good measure, then hiked back to my car.

It had been four years since I had climbed Jack, and I was somewhat surprised how easy it is technically, easier than I remembered. The trouble is, though, that it's also easy to break a hold, and if that happens while free-soloing one has an excellent chance of winding up dead. Fortunately, the rock on The Crawl is bomb-proof, but in the chimney I'm never totally sure about the holds, and from the rappel anchor to the summit the rock is just horrible, so one wants to be extra careful. Still, it felt good to be on the Jack again, and the free solo helped my mental state.