Chelsea: Food and Change in Twentieth Century China

$ The Chinese are often noted as being a people that have changed very gradually over the time and their food customs and habits are no exception.

$ Their way of life has followed strict societal rules and patterns for generations until the twentieth century when the Chinese people were rocked by political and social change.

$ This change affected the use of food in the vast culture, and the tradition of food in ritual.

$ Many of the ritual that are still performed today in China had their beginings in ancient China.

$ Rituals such as the wedding ceremony and funeral right have changed, but are recognisably the same.

$ We know this because these rituals are mentioned and described in classical texts as The Book of Rites, The Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial, and the Baihu Tong.

$ The “chief objectives” of the wedding ceremony have remained unchanged over time: the joining of two families to ensure descendants, the honoring of the ancestors, ritual practices to encourage fertility, elaborate gift giving etiquette, and feasting.

$ Prior to the revolution and change from Qing empire to the Republic of China, the people of China reserved their elaborate dining rituals for feasts of special importance due to the pervasive cycles of abundance and famine.

$ The common people were wary of over consumption, but on certain special occasions those who could afford to celebrate would.

$ Marriages, births, deaths, birthdays, holidays, and ancestor veneration all merited special attention when celebrated.

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Coupling the change in governments with the First and Second World, customary importance of food was interrupted and great poverty spread to all of the Chinese peoples.

$ Under the new communist regime the Populus was initially hopeful for peace, but the Korean war dashed all hope of a peaceful period.

$ The moderate policies implemented prior gave way to a militant campaign against, “enemies of the state”, and those opposed to the communist way.

$ Most of the rituals have a basis in religion and philosophy, and simply were not compatible with his ideals and had to be done away with.

$ For example according to Mao’s doctrine, the family unit is supposed to be subservient to the state in all matters.

$ Funerals and the many memorials that would normally follow the death of a family member were banned.

$ One thing was even more difficult than practicing ones chosen religion and rituals at this time, and that was finding food to eat.

$ The Great Leap Forward, turned out to be a giant step backward.

$ While people were forced to look for food outside of the commune mess halls there was little time to practice rituals as many thousands died daily from starvation.

$ Only one member of the Chinese Communist Party, had the nerve to confront Chairman Mao about the sad state of the P.R.C., and this did little good.

$ On September 9, 1976 Mao Zedong died, which once again plunged China into a power struggle.

$ When the gang of four were imprisoned, people took to the streets in celebration and alcohol sold out.

$ Though it was fifteen years after the famine began, public health standards and nutrition were far from the pre-revolutionary standards.

$ Economic reforms such as privitization of land and business initiated the rise in food consumption and health standards.

$ With the initiation of these reforms dormant traditions returned, and people were free to entertain and show their wealth once again.

$ Though policies against religion are still in existence, the government took a more lax attitude towards enforcement.

$ Traditions such as Spring Festival, the Lantern Festival, Pure Brightness day, and the Mid-Autumn Festival were revived.

$ The Spring Festival, falls on the first day of the lunar month sometime in a ten day period between January and Mid February.

$ Traditional foods for the family banquet include JiaoZi, Eight Treasure Chicken, and Nian Gao. Most of the foods eaten on the New Years sound like the Chinese words for good

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$ luck.

$ This ancient festival has returned in full force and is once again considered the Chinese New Year, even though in 1911 the Chinese started to use the Gregorian calender, the end of the New Year fetivities are celebrated with the Lantern Festival.

$ Another revived festival, Pure Brightness day, which traditionally falls around April fifth, is the festival in which mot people pay homage to their ancestors.

$ Sacrifices are made, with both food and burned paper money offered to those who have passed.

$ The mid-Autumn Festival is another holiday that is closely linked with traditional Chinese religion, but has been changed to fit with the modern culture.

$ It is celebrated with a banquet setup outside so that the gathered family and friends can see the full moon.

$ Moon cakes and other more elaborate cakes are a traditional dish served at this festival.

$ Traditional rituals, such as the marriage ceremony have also been revived, but changed to suit the modern times.

$ Traditional elements such as the wine drinking ceremony and ancestor veneration are virtually unchanged, while modern brides are changing into a western style wedding dress during the traditional ceremony.

$ Traditional funeral rituals are still being practiced, and the banquet honoring the dead is still one of the most treasured elements.

$ As a whole the ceremonies practiced today in China and the rituals that accompany them have remained unchanged.

$ Some of the traditions have been modified to fit the more modern western influenced and secular culture of China today.

$ The love of food and the respect for ritual survived cultural and political turmoil of the twentieth century.