463/563 Specialized Reporting: Writing About Food

Spring 2012
Tuesday, Thursday 10-11:50, 204A Agate

JOHN RUSSIAL
220A Agate Hall 346-3750
Office hours: Wed, 1-2, Thurs 1-3. Or by appointment, or drop by. I'm around quite a bit.
E-mail: jrussial@uoregon.edu. Note, browsers often need to be set up to use this type of e-mail link. If you're not sure how to do that, you can cut and paste the address into the address field of an e-mail program.

Prerequisites: J361 or J432 or permission of instructor
This page can be found at http://journalism.uoregon.edu/~jrussial/j463/
Books
Required:
In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan
Far-Flung and Well-Fed: The Food Writing of R.W. Apple
(This is out of print, but the bookstore got a handful of copies.) It's readily available on Amazon. I've put two copies on reserve in the Student Services trailer behind Agate Hall.

Course overview

The course is a broad-based exploration of writing about food. Good food writing reflects good reporting, and this class will focus on both reporting and writing.

The possibilities for stories are almost endless. In this region alone, there are interesting trends involving farm-to-table movements, winegrowing and winemaking, amateur and professional brewing, artisan production of cheese, meats, and other foods, home gardening, etc. There are trends, such as community supported agriculture (CSAs) and community gardens. There are stories about work in the food trades and industries--profiles of chef, cooks, innovators and growers.

Writers can look at food from such diverse perspectives as culture, politics, commerce and science. Food is a business for many, a career for some. Stories about food range from quick-hit pieces about a new restaurant in town or a new food entrepreneur to multi-part long-form series that look deeply into issues involving food production, consumption and safety. Several of these have won the Pulitzer Prize for explanatory journalism. For example, The Oregonian won a Pulitzer in 1999 for a series called The French Fry Connection, which looked at the journey of potatoes from the Northwest to McDonald's French fries in Asia as an example of the interconnected global economy.

To explore some of these areas, I'm planning to bring in visitors and have Skype interviews with folks involved in different aspects of food. I'm not seeing this as a class primarily about restaurant reviewing, though that might be a part of it. I'm expecting students to be writing a variety of stories and, if there's interest, in doing some still photos and video. We can create a web site if we want. I taught the Cyberjournalism class for years, and we produced an original web site for each class.

Because this class is a new one, it will be a work in progress. Your suggestions about what aspects of food writing you're interested in will help make the class a success. Also, if you have ideas about interesting people to talk with, let me know

Class sessions

Class meets from 10 to 11:50 Tuesday and Thursday in Agate 204A.

Attendance is important. Classes will be a mix of discussion, review of stories and visitors. If you are going to miss a class, I need to know in advance. If I do not find out before the class, it may affect your evaluation grade.

Assignments

There will be a mix of assignments, including, most likely, a profile, an issue piece, a story about an ethnic food and its place in a specific culture, a story about trends in food production, an interview with a cook or chef.

Grading:

Grades will primarily be based on stories written. Twenty percent of the grade is based on class participation and attendance. Grading will be based on criteria of publishability.

Tentative schedule

Note the word tentative

Week 1: (April 3, 5)
Tuesday: Introduction
Thursday: Food writing as reporting, types of food stories, especially short profiles
Short food stories to read for Thursday:

  • Global Warming From the Economist.
  • Spring Gleaning From Portland Monthly
  • First the Dishes, then the Revolution Also from Portland Monthly
  • Camas Davis of the Portland Meat Collective Willamette Week Q&A on why they teach people how to slaughter animals
  • Duane's World Stumptown founder opens a restaurant
  • 7 ways to plant potatoes From Organic Gardening
  • The Secret to Food-Writing Success
  • Antibiotic-resistant bacteria From Center for Science in the Public Interest

    Week 2: (April 10, 12)
    Tuesday--profiles and sketches Skype interview with a cook, who also happens to be my daughter.

  • Ninkasi's female brewer From The Register-Guard Special Publications
  • Stephanie Pearl Kimmel of Marche
  • In the Chef's Kitchen
  • Profile of a chef in Maryland Mostly Q&A

    Thursday--No class (I'm away at a conference). Work on short profile based on Skype interview.
    Assignment due--short profile of the cook. E-mail it to me by 6 p.m. Saturday.
    Attach a Word file to a message. It can be in .doc or .docx format.

    Week 3: (April 17, 19)
    Food and Culture
    Local and regional flavor
    Discuss profiles
    Going to the source
    Visitors Readings--From R.W. Apple book:

  • The Glorious Summer of the Soft-Shell Crab, p. 9-18.
  • In Hoagieland, They Accept No Substitutes, p. 27-34.
  • Bagging the Endangered Sandwich, p. 35-41.
  • It Takes More Than Crayfish... p. 74-81.
  • The Meat that Made Sheboygan Famous, p. 96-101.
  • The Secret Sauce of Worcester, p. 178-182.
  • Following the Pepper Grinder... p. 367-372.
  • Po Boy--New Orleans
  • Tabasco, from The Economist

    Week 4: (April 24, 26)
    More Food and Culture
    Tastes of Home, ethnic foods, holidays
    What food means to people from different cultures and places
    Describing food
    Readings-- from R.W. Apple:

  • In the Midwest, a Sweet Tooth is Nonpartisan, p. 88-95.
  • Much Too Good for a Bagel, p. 204-208.
  • From the Vines of Vesuvius, p. 281-288.
  • Where the Buffaloes Roam...p. 289-292.
  • In Germany, Spring Wears White, p. 293-298.
  • The Miracle of Rye, p. 299-303.
  • A Trip to the Heart of Dim Sum, p.350-357

    A few short articles on describing food
  • 5 Steps to Transform Meals into Writing Experiences From Writer's Digest. This might take a while to load, but it's worth it.
  • Describing food Too many adjectives.
  • More adjectives, including some that might run afoul of "Truth in Menu Labeling Laws" Here's another explanation of the range of those laws.
  • Our Secret List of Banned Words Serious Eats. Pretty funny comments too.
  • "Who's Rocking to the Music? That's the Chef" From The New York Times (mentioned in class 4/26)

    An interesting ongoing Twitter discussion with some top food writers internationally.
  • Six Rules for Dining Out How a frugal economist finds the perfect lunch. From The Atlantic.
  • Jonathan Gold on reviewer anonymity
  • Assignment--short food review--best if it's a food or restaurant you're already familiar with. Due date April 26 at the beginning of class.

    Week 5: (May 1, 3)
    Wine, beer, etc.
    A growing option, but not an easy career.
    The science of food production--the chemistry of beer-, winemaking and whiskey. Trends: Home brewing and wine-making
    From R.W. Apple:

  • Bourbons in the Cognac League, p. 57-61.
  • A Rugged Drink for a Rugged Land, p. 198-203.
  • Behind the Redwoods...p. 134-141.
  • Cider Insiders: An Old-fashioned Drink Gains Popularity in the Northwest From the Register-Guard
  • The Truth about the Origins of IPA From The Beer Commoisseur
  • Tourists Drawn to Distilleries, Breweries
  • Wine 101 Some basic information; Some is getting a bit old. From OregonWines.com. Visitors--Jacob Dittmer (UO) and Jerry Sass of Sass Winery
    Assignment--research an ethnic dish, write about it--history, what it means to people of that ethnicity, interview at least one person who has that heritage. Due date May 3 at the beginning of class.

    Week 6: (May 8, 10)
    The restaurant trade Cooking as a career, culinary education
    Food as a business, the shift to catering and other specializations
    R.W. Apple-Stalking the Wild Morel...p 109-17.

  • About gastropubs Fron Nation's Restaurant News
  • Burger Queen very long New Yorker profile of a chef
  • Chef profile in Q&A format
  • Celebrity chefs--New Orleans
  • Half-baked Food Reviews? From Journal Sentinel Online
  • Bloggers, We Will Bury You From Restaurant Hospitality magazine

    Week 7: (May 15, 17)
    Food and politics
    Genetically modified crops--issues of intellectual property and lobbying power, monoculture and disease resistance, irradiated food, the organic movement
    Readings--Pollan--In Defence of Food--Part 1 (The Age of Nutritionism)
    Tuesday, may 15, Visit to LCC culinary program. Meet in class at 10 (don't be late), and we'll carpool over to Lane. We'll be back before noon.
    Assignment: Find a food article you really like. Send me a link, or provide hard copy, and I can scan it for presentation. Write a paragraph or two about why you think the article is good. Due May 17. We can discuss some or most of these in class on Thursday. The following are links I've received:

  • She Simmers: Thai Home Cooking web site
  • "Ozaki Wagyu Farm: The Quest to produce the World's Best Beef!"
  • "Asparagus for the Quotidian" By Melissa Clark in The New York Times
  • Fire in the Hole From The Economist
  • Dar Salam Restaurant Owners Are Educating Oregonians About Iraqi Culture, One Plate at a Time," From Oregonlive.com
  • Jewel of India restaurant review From Washingtonian magazine.
  • Ode to the Slimy Hagfish By Jonathan Gold
  • "Fried Egg I'm In Love" By Martin Cizmar in Willamette Week
  • "Generation X Report: Men Spend More Time in the Kitchen" From Time
  • Pork Belly, Lobster, and, Yes, Music From The New York Times
  • The First Served From The New Yorker
  • Banana Bread Crepe Cake with Butterscotch
  • "Hanoi emerging as a destination for foodies"
  • A lager crowd Thousands of brew lovers flock to Sasquatch to sip and mingle
  • Eggs, Over Easy, Scrambled or Smiling
  • "Two Classes Divided by a Kitchen Door" By Anand Giridharadas in The New York Times.

    Week 8: (May 24, 26)
    Local trends
    Local sourcing (King Estate restaurant); Artisan trends. Reaction to a large degree to the criticisms seen in the Pollan book.
    Wheat farming, raising pork, cheeses, etc....

  • 9 secrets to finding the best local food From Organic Gardening
  • Food Trends-2012 From PBS.org
    Reading--Pollan, (Parts 2 and 3)
    Visitor: Representative of Slow Food UO
    Assignment: Trend or issue story, due by e-mail Saturday, May 26 (We talked about this in class. This clarifies the previous confusion--I hope)

    Week 9: (May 31, June 2)
    Food and health
    Issues with allergies, food intolerances
    Gluten, dairy, etc. Do-it-yourselfers
    Backyard chicken-raising, organic gardening

  • The Ultimate Block Party From a Sunset Magazine contest.
  • Profile of cookbook author Joan Nathan
  • Cookbook Sales Flourish ... even though book publishing overall is down

    Visitor: Pat Patterson, master gardener, May 29.

    Week 10: (June 7, 9)
    Food writing Impact of the web, Yelp and other review sites, etc...

  • Dishing About Food Writing Out of a Crowded Field, Seven Writers You Should Know About. By Bill Daley of the Chicago Tribune
  • An April exchange about making a living in food writing
  • America's oldest brewer Direct to consumer
  • King Estate Building community through social media and news
  • Star Tribune's "taste" section
  • Association of Food Journalists
  • AFJ statement of ethics
    Assignment: A longer piece--extended profile, issue or trend story, etc., (4-5 pages) due June 9. This story can be an expanded version of one of the earlier assignments--with more reporting
    Skype interview with Lee Dean, food editor of the Minneapolis Star Tribune